Climbing was born on the small rocks of the Fontainebleau Valley in France. Climbers used these formations to train technical moves and develop strength before tackling big ascents in the Alps. Today, the evolution of the sport has allowed athletes to stand out and for some to outshine others. Stick around to see the biggest names in climbing today!
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Biggest names in Climbing today: historical context of the sport
Climbing, as a recreational and sporting activity, has its roots in the practice of mountaineering, which began to become popular in Europe in the 19th century. Initially, climbing was a way of accessing more inaccessible mountain peaks;
The evolution into an independent activity began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with climbers in Great Britain and Germany exploring smaller and more technical rocks;
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In the 1960s, with the growing interest in climbing, the first artificial climbing walls appeared.
These structures have allowed practitioners to train in controlled and safe environments, regardless of the weather conditions;
Artificial walls have revolutionized the training and accessibility of the sport, making it more popular and accessible.
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Climbing has a curious link with the advent of magnesium powder. Used to dry hands and improve grip, magnesium has become an essential item in any climber’s kit, contributing significantly to safety and performance.
Olympic history of Climbing
Sport climbing made its debut at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, marking a historic moment for the sport.
The inclusion of climbing in the Olympics was the result of an ongoing effort to diversify Olympic sports and attract a younger audience.
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The Olympic climbing competition consisted of three disciplines: lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing;
The athletes competed in all three disciplines, with their performances combined to determine the winners.
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Climbing’s debut at the Olympics was a great success, highlighting the unique combination of strength, technique and strategy that the sport demands.
The competition brought global visibility to climbing and inspired a new generation of climbers.
Biggest names in Climbing today: competition rules
Climbing competitions are divided into three main disciplines:
- Difficulty (Lead Climbing): climbers have a limited time to climb as high as possible on a pre-defined route equipped with fixed protections. The climber who gets the highest wins.
- Boulder: in this discipline, competitors climb short, technical routes, known as “problems”, without ropes but with safety mattresses on the ground. They have a limited time to complete as many problems as possible.Difficulty (Lead Climbing): Climbers have a limited time to climb as high as possible on a pre-defined route equipped with fixed protections. The climber who gets the highest wins.
Boulder: In this discipline, competitors climb short, technical routes, known as “problems”, without ropes but with safety mattresses on the ground. They have a limited time to complete as many problems as possible. - Speed Climbing: two climbers compete side by side on an identical, fixed 15-meter route. The aim is to reach the top in the shortest time possible.
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Biggest names in climbing today (Men Worldwide)
Adam Ondra (Czech Republic)
Known for his achievements in sport climbing and bouldering, Ondra is one of the few climbers to have completed routes of difficulty 9c (5.15d), such as “Silence” in Flatanger, Norway.
Alex Megos (Germany)
Another elite climber, Megos was the first to climb a 9a (5.14d) route in sight in 2013.
Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
Renowned in both bouldering and speed climbing, Narasaki is a consistent competitor in Climbing World Cup events.
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Biggest names in climbing today (Women Worldwide)
Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
Considered one of the best climbers in the world, Garnbret has dominated bouldering and difficulty competitions, winning several World Cup titles.
Shauna Coxsey (United Kingdom)
One of Britain’s most renowned climbers, Coxsey has an impressive record of winning bouldering competitions.
Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
With a long and successful career, Noguchi is one of the most consistent climbers in international competitions, especially in bouldering.
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Biggest names in climbing today (Men Brazil)
Felipe Camargo
Considered one of Brazil’s best climbers, Camargo has excelled both in competitions and in high-difficulty sport climbing projects.
Caio Gomes
Another important name in Brazilian climbing, Gomes has participated in several international competitions, representing Brazil with distinction.
Biggest names in climbing today (Women Brazil)
Bianca Castro
One of the main figures in women’s climbing in Brazil, Castro has excelled in national and international competitions.
Janine Cardoso
A veteran of the sport, Cardoso has a long history of contributions to climbing in Brazil, both as a competitor and as a promoter of the sport.
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Which athletes have a chance of medaling at the 2024 Olympics?
As the Paris 2024 Olympic Games approach, several climbers are standing out as strong contenders for medals in sport climbing. The event will feature two disciplines per gender: combined bouldering and difficulty, and speed climbing.
For men’s speed climbing
- Veddriq Leonardo and Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia are leading candidates, with Katibin setting a new world record of 5.00 seconds.
- Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine, European speed champion in 2022, is also a strong contender
For women’s speed climbing
- Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland, who set a world record with a time of 6.53 seconds, and her compatriot Aleksandra Kalucka are leading contenders.
- Emma Hunt of the USA, known for her consistency and performance at the World Games, is another strong contender.
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In men’s combined bouldering and difficulty
- Japanese climbers such as Ogata Yoshiyuki, Fujii Kokoro and Homma Taisei have shown exceptional performance in recent World Cups.
- Yannick Flohé from Germany and Mejdi Schalck from France are also promising athletes looking to challenge Japan’s dominance.
In bouldering and combined difficulty for women
- Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, the reigning Olympic champion, remains a formidable force.
- Natalia Grossman and Brooke Raboutou from the USA are top climbers who have excelled in international competitions.
- Nonaka Miho of Japan and Seo Chaehyun of South Korea are also big threats, with impressive performances in recent events.
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These athletes have already secured their places for Paris 2024 and are expected to deliver thrilling performances on the Olympic stage;
The new format, which separates speed from the combined bouldering and difficulty event, is expected to bring more focused and intense competitions
Climbing, with its roots in mountaineering and its evolution into a competitive sport, combines history, technique and innovation;
Inclusion in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics was a significant milestone that helped catapult the sport to global attention;
The future of climbing promises new achievements and the rise of new talents in an increasingly competitive global scenario!
Now that you’ve met the biggest names in climbing today, how about finding out more about other Olympic disciplines?
