of mountaineering. It can be done solo or as part of a team and seeks to challenge the practitioners’ strength and concentration as much as possible. Today you’ll learn all about Climbing!
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All about Climbing: what is it?
Climbing is above all an activity that combines motor coordination to learn and execute specific movements (technique), mental control (fear management), strength and flexibility;
It can be done in different environments: on rocks (mountains), on blocks (small stones known as boulders), on snow (mountaineering or andinism), on ice, and also in clubs or closed places (known as indoor climbing);
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All about Climbing: history
The practice of climbing mountains dates back thousands of years, with pictorial representations dating back to 400 BC;
However, the sport as we know it today only emerged in the second half of the 19th century, and the first indoor competitions took place in the 80s.
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Climbing as a sporting activity does not have a specific origin, as there are records of groups of climbers in mountainous regions of Britain, Germany and Italy, practicing climbing around the same time;
The first sport climbing competition on natural rock took place in Italy in 1985. The following year, the first indoor competition was held in Lyon, France.
The sport made its debut at the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020, with three disciplines: speed, difficulty and bouldering.
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All about Climbing: modalities
Each practice environment has different types of climbing: on an artificial wall we have indoor climbing and in a natural environment we have:
- Bouldering;
- Sport Climbing;
- Trad Climbing;
- Top Rope
- Speed Climbing;
- Ice Climbing;
- Alpine Climbing;
- Big Wall Climbing;
- Indoor.
Each sport requires specific techniques and equipment to create safety systems that minimize accidents and fatalities.
In general, climbing uses only hands and feet to progress up the wall and is called “free climbing”;
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All about Climbing: rules for each discipline
Climbing is a diverse sport with several disciplines, each with specific characteristics and rules. Here are the main climbing disciplines:
Bouldering
Bouldering is a type of climbing that distinguishes itself by not using ropes or harnesses, but is carried out on low walls with padding on the ground to protect against falls. The rules of this sport vary slightly depending on the context, but here are the basic principles, especially in competitions:
Environment and protection:
- The climbs take place on walls up to 4-5 meters high.
- The padding on the floor (crash pads) is used to cushion falls.
Safety:
- Climbers can use magnesium to improve grip.
- Bouldering must be done with attention to the surroundings and other climbers to avoid collisions.
Routes and marking:
- The routes (problems) are marked with ribbons or different colors to indicate the path to be followed.
- Each route has a specific degree of difficulty.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is usually indicated by two marks (hands and feet) at the base of the wall.
- The end of the route is reached when the climber has held the last handhold with both hands long enough to demonstrate control.
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Temptations and scoring:
- In competitions, climbers have a time limit to complete as many routes as they can.
- Each route completed is worth points. The fewer attempts needed to complete the route, the more points the climber earns.
- Additional points can be awarded for holding intermediate points called “zones” or “bonuses”.
Climbing time:
- Each climber has a time limit to try and solve each problem.
- The typical time for each attempt in bouldering competitions is 4 to 5 minutes, depending on the competition rules.
Specific competition rules:
- Climbers compete individually.
- Previewing the route is allowed, but without touching the footprints.
- Climbing times are controlled by official stopwatches.
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Sport Climbing
Environment and protection:
- Built into high walls with fixed protection points (bolts and plates) along the route.
- Harness, rope, safety carabiners and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- A qualified belayer must be present to control the rope and ensure the climber’s safety.
- Harness, rope, removable protective equipment (nuts, cams, tricams, etc.), carabiners and safety devices.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are pre-established and marked with numbered tusks indicating progression.
- The climber must follow the sequence of tusks to achieve the maximum score.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is usually indicated by the base of the wall, where the climber begins.
- The end of the route is reached by holding the last prey with both hands long enough to demonstrate control.
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Temptations and punctuation
- Each climber has only one attempt per route in the qualifying, semi-final and final stages.
- The score is based on the height reached. Each numbered tusk counts for points. The higher the prey, the higher the score.
- In the event of a tie, the number of attempts to reach the maximum height is taken into account.
Time:
- Climbers must use the correct technique to clip the rope to the protection points.
Specific competition rules:
- The climber will be disqualified if they use parts of the wall structure or other non-permitted aids
- Climbers will be disqualified if they fail to clip in at any mandatory protection point.
- Climbers will be disqualified if they exceed the time limit.
- Climbers will be disqualified if they commit any infraction that endangers their safety or that of others.
- In on-sight competitions, climbers cannot observe other competitors climbing the route before their turn. There is a route reading period before the attempt, where climbers can observe and plan, but not touch the wall.
- Climbers can appeal the judges’ decisions, which will be reviewed by an arbitration panel.
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Trad Climbing
Environment and protection:
- Carried out on natural walls or rock formations, without fixed protections previously installed.
- Harness, rope, removable protective equipment (nuts, cams, tricams, etc.), carabiners and safety devices.
Safety:
- Climbers place their own protection along the route, using removable devices suited to the characteristics of the rock.
- Safety depends on the climber’s ability to place protection effectively and at appropriate intervals.
Routes and marking:
- Carried out on natural walls or rock formations, without fixed protections previously installed.
- The routes are not marked as in sport climbing, but can be described in guidebooks or by local information.
- The choice of route and the placement of protection are determined by the climber based on their reading of the rock.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is usually indicated by the natural base of the rock formation.
- The end of the route can be the top of the formation, a safe anchor point, or as described in the guides.
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Temptations and scoring:
- Traditional climbing is generally not competitive, and the emphasis is on safety and personal experience.
- In competitive contexts (rare), the score can take into account the efficiency of the placement of protections, time to complete the route and safety.
Climbing time:
- There is no standard time limit, but the climber must plan and manage time effectively to ensure safety, especially on long routes.
Specific competition rules:
- The guards must be fitted safely and effectively, minimizing the risk of falls.
- The second climber (second in line) must remove all protection when following the leader.
- The climber must constantly assess the risks, such as the quality of the rock and the weather conditions.
- Climbers will be disqualified if they use fixed protection or external facilities that are not permitted.
- Climbers will be disqualified if they fail to put on adequate protection at safe intervals.
- The climber will be disqualified if they commit any infraction that puts the safety of the climber or the second person on the rope at risk.
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Top Rope
Environment and protection:
- This is done on high walls, both natural and artificial, with the rope passed through an anchor point at the top of the route.
- Harness, rope, safety device, carabiners and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- The climber is held by a rope that passes through the anchor point at the top of the route, providing constant safety.
- An attendant controls the rope from the ground using a suitable safety device.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are pre-established and can be marked with numbered tusks or specific colors, indicating the sequence of movements.
- The climber must follow the sequence of the designated tusks to complete the route correctly.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is indicated by the base of the wall, where the climber begins.
- The end of the route is reached by holding the last tusk with both hands long enough to demonstrate control, or by touching the top of the structure.
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Temptations and scoring:
- In competitions, the number of attempts can be limited or unlimited, depending on the specific rules of the event.
- The score is based on the height reached on the route. Each numbered prey counts for points, and the higher the prey, the higher the score.
Climbing time:
- Each climber has a time limit to complete the route, usually between 5 and 10 minutes, depending on the competition regulations.
- The clock starts ticking from the moment the climber leaves the ground.
Specific competition rules:
- The competitions are divided by age, gender and skill level (youth, adult, veteran, male, female).
- It can include several stages, such as qualifying, semi-finals and finals, with different routes for each stage.
- Before starting the climb, competitors can have a period of observation to study the route without touching it.
- The climber will be disqualified if they use parts of the wall structure or other non-permitted aids.
- The climber will be disqualified if they fail to follow the designated sequence of tusks.
- Climbers will be disqualified if they exceed the time limit.
- The climber will be disqualified if he commits any infraction that endangers the safety of the climber or the insurer.
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Speed Climbing
Environment and protection:
- Made of standardized artificial walls 15 meters high.
- Harness, safety rope, automatic safety device (Auto Belay), climbing shoes, and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- Climbers compete on identical routes side by side.
- Safety is guaranteed by automatic safety devices that control the descent after climbing.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are standardized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and are identical in all official competitions.
- Tusks and volumes are set consistently, with no changes between competitions.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the climb is marked by the base of the wall, where climbers start from a fixed starting position.
- The end of the route is reached by touching an end-of-route button located at the top of the wall, which stops the timer.
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Temptations and scoring:
- Each climber has one attempt in each round to record their time.
- The time is recorded electronically from the start of the climb until the end-of-climb button is pressed.
- The climber with the shortest time wins the round.
Climbing time:
- Time is timed with electronic precision and is the main evaluation criterion.
- There is no time limit for completing the climb, but the aim is to do it as quickly as possible.
Specific competition rules:
- The competitions are divided by age, gender and skill level (youth, adult, veteran, male, female).
- They include qualifying, round of 16, quarter-finals, semi-finals and finals, with direct qualifiers.
- The competitors are paired up and compete in a direct knockout format, with the winners of each round advancing to the next stage.
- If a climber starts before the start signal, they are disqualified.
- If the climber does not touch the end of route button correctly, the attempt is invalid.
- If a climber commits any infraction that endangers safety or violates the rules of the competition.
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Ice Climbing
Environment and protection:
- It takes place on natural ice waterfalls or artificial ice walls.
- Harness, rope, piolets (ice axes), crampons (foot crampons), helmet, safety devices, carabiners and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- The climber is held by a rope that passes through the anchor point at the top of the route, providing constant safety.
- An attendant controls the rope from the ground using a suitable safety device.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are pre-established and can be marked with numbered tusks or specific colors, indicating the sequence of movements.
- The climber must follow the sequence of the designated tusks to complete the route correctly.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is indicated by the base of the wall, where the climber begins.
- The end of the route is reached by holding the last tusk with both hands long enough to demonstrate control, or by touching the top of the structure.
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Temptations and scoring:
- In competitions, the number of attempts can be limited or unlimited, depending on the specific rules of the event.
- The score is based on the height reached on the route. Each numbered prey counts for points, and the higher the prey, the higher the score.
Climbing time:
- Each climber has a time limit to complete the route, usually between 5 and 10 minutes, depending on the competition regulations.
- The time starts counting from the moment the climber leaves the ground.
Specific competition rules:
- The competitions are divided by age, gender and skill level (youth, adult, veteran, male, female).
- It can include several stages, such as qualifying, semi-finals and finals, with different routes for each stage.
- Before starting the climb, competitors can have a period of observation to study the route without touching it.
- If a climber uses parts of the wall structure or other non-permitted aids.
- If a climber fails to follow the designated sequence of prey.
- If a climber exceeds the climbing time limit.
- If a climber commits any infraction that endangers the safety of the climber or the insurer.
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Alpine Climbing
Environment and protection:
- Carried out in mountains and high-altitude terrain, often in variable and demanding conditions.
- Harness, rope, piolets (ice axes), crampons, helmet, safety devices, carabiners, mobile protections (friends, nuts), appropriate mountain clothing, high-mountain footwear, and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- It involves a combination of rock and ice climbing techniques, as well as navigation and mountain survival skills.
- It uses mobile and natural protections for safety, with the lead climber placing protections along the route and the second climber removing them.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are often unmarked, requiring climbers to navigate based on guidebook descriptions, maps and previous experience.
- It can include various difficulties and types of terrain, such as rock, snow and ice.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the route is usually the base of the mountain or the point where the technical climb begins.
- The end of the route is often the top of the mountain or a specific safe descent point.
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Temptations and scoring:
- There is no formal system of attempts and scoring, as alpine climbing is more about completing the route safely than competing against others.
- Success is measured by the safety and efficiency of the climb, as well as the ability to complete the planned route.
Climbing time:
- The time can vary widely, from a few hours to several days, depending on the complexity of the route and the weather conditions.
- Time is less regulated than in other forms of climbing, with a focus on safety and adapting to the conditions.
Specific competition rules:
- Climbers must be self-sufficient, carrying all the necessary equipment for safety, navigation and survival.
- É crucial planejar a rota com antecedência, considerando condições climáticas, dificuldades técnicas e estratégias de evacuação.
- Climbers must be prepared to adapt their plans as conditions change, always prioritizing safety.
- There is no formal disqualification, but the ethics of Alpine climbing emphasize safety, conservation of the natural environment and respect for mountain traditions.
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Big Wall Climbing
Environment and protection:
- It takes place on long, vertical rock walls, usually over 600 meters high. It includes free, artificial and mixed climbing sections.
- Harness, dynamic rope, piolets (for ice sections, if necessary), crampons (if necessary), climbing shoes, helmet, safety devices (grigri, ATC), carabiners, mobile protections (friends, nuts, camalots), shirts, pants, sleeping bag, tent or shelter, food and water, first aid kit.
Safety:
- Utiliza técnicas avançadas de escalada em rocha, incluindo a colocação de proteções móveis e ancoragens em pontos específicos da parede.
- It requires skills in free and artificial climbing, with the use of equipment to climb and protect yourself along the route.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are often pre-established, with well-defined anchor points and climbing sequences. It may require navigation and tactical choices during the climb.
- Routes can include sections of free and artificial climbing, with the placement of mobile protection being common.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the climb is usually at the base of the rock wall.
- The end of the route is reached by reaching the summit or the designated area at the top of the wall, where climbers can establish a safe abseil or descent point.
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Temptations and scoring:
- Big wall climbing is focused on the journey and completing the route safely, not on competition. There is no formal system of attempts and scoring.
- Success is measured by the ability to complete the climb safely and efficiently.
Climbing time:
- The duration can vary widely, from several hours to several days or weeks, depending on the complexity of the route, the weather conditions and the pace of the team.
- The timing is flexible and depends on the conditions of the wall and the strategy adopted by the team.
Specific competition rules:
- Climbers must be able to sustain themselves during the climb, carrying enough supplies for several days.
- It is essential to plan the route, anchor points and evacuation strategies in advance.
- Normally, the team is divided into a leader and a follower, with the leader placing the mobile guards and the follower removing them.
- There is no formal disqualification, but the ethics of big wall climbing emphasize safety, conservation of the natural environment and mutual responsibility.
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Indoor
Environment and protection:
- It takes place in gyms or indoor climbing centers, using artificial walls with pre-set rotations.
- Harness, climbing shoes, helmet (optional, but recommended), rope (in disciplines that require it), safety device (such as ATC or GriGri), and magnesium for hands.
Safety:
- Indoor climbing involves basic to advanced climbing techniques on rock and artificial structures.
- In competitions, climbers must follow specific rules on the placement and use of safety equipment, as well as following the safety regulations of the climbing center.
Routes and marking:
- The routes are pre-configured and vary in difficulty, often indicated by colors or numbers.
- Walls can include bouldering sections, sport climbing routes and other configurations.
Start and end of route:
- The start of the climb is at the base of the wall, where climbers prepare to begin the ascent.
- The end is reached by holding the final catch or by reaching a specific point, depending on the configuration of the wall.
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Temptations and scoring:
- In competitions, each climber has a limited number of attempts to complete a route. The score is based on the height reached, the difficulty of the route and the number of attempts made.
- Competitions can have different formats, such as “on-sight”, where climbers can’t see other competitors, or “flash”, where they can see a route before attempting it.
Climbing time:
- Time is generally limited, with specific periods to complete the routes during competitions.
- In training environments, time is more flexible, allowing climbers to adjust their pace as needed.
Specific competition rules:
- It is essential to follow the indoor climbing center’s safety regulations, including the proper use of equipment and the maintenance of climbing areas.
- The routes are generally divided by degree of difficulty, which can be indicated on a local or international scale.
- In competitions, climbers must use the equipment provided or approved by the organization.
- A climber can be disqualified if they disregard safety rules, such as not wearing the appropriate equipment or not following the organizers’ instructions.
- Failure to complete the route within the time limit or to follow the established scoring rules will also result in elimination.
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